Excerpt from Thirty Years at the Cutting-Board: Being a Work Designed to Assist the Student to Acquire Knowledge in the Art of Cutting; Containing a Series of Diagrams Laid Down to Measure and as Used by Us in Our Daily Practice

On the first measure down the back, we allow in most cases inch; 1 inch to the shoulder length, 1 inch to the measure over the shoulder to the first measure down the back, and 1 inch to the blade. Rhen drafting a sack coat add é an inch in front of the construction line for a normal figure, and increase the distance as the waist enlarges. We add 1 inch when the waist is 2 inches smaller than the breast, and for every 2 inches that the waist increases we add an inch, so that when the breast and waist measures are equal, we add 1% inches in front of the construction line. We observe the same rule for all sacks that are cut to button all the way down. \vhen cutting a coat for a stooping figure, observe the diagrams for these forms the changes have been there described, only the back line that is carried forward at A, to produce the round, will have to be changed moreor less, according to the degree of roundness of back. Ten you meet with a person out of the reg ular shape, always take care to note it. If one shoulder should be lower than the other, put the square under each arm, and note the difference by a mark on the back, at the centre, above or below the first mark made as the case may be, and when cutting a coat for a form of this kind, take the shoulder off 5 an inch at the top, and make other changes as shown on plate 20.

Sometimes, men will be met with, with one very prominent shoulder-blade, and the other very flat be careful and note which of the two sides is the largest so as not to make a mistake when cut ting, for the small side will have to be cut flat for such a form, and the other side piece will have to be cut with more round and perhaps a little wadding put in the flat side but it is simply impossible to note all the difficulties to be encountered, therefore we will only advise great care in observing the different builds, and study what changes to make for the various forms.

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