About the Book
This book is not just a history of fashion from the early days of the creation of dressmaking fashion to the development of readyto-
wear manufacturing and the global enterprise it is today. Its ambition is to be the story of the creation, the evolution, and the
implosion of the fashion-related professions. With readable, highly-informative, and entertaining text — coupled with stunning
photography — this book offers valuable insights into a profession which, unlike any other social body, is determined as much by
its origins as by its economic context.
Didier Grumbach walks you down the runways of fashion history and unfolds the secrets of the industry with stories and accounts
from those who have played an active part in its development from the 1920s to the present. And he knows what he is talking
about: he was born, grew up, and made his mark in the circle that he opens for us here. For decades, he has collected archives, met
with witnesses, interacted with the most influential players, and opened doors which are normally kept firmly shut. In his international
bestseller, he finally offers us a 20th century illustrated history of fashion like no other — a saga, a family business, with noble fathers,
prodigal sons, enthusiasms, passions, hatreds, strokes of genius and, of course, failures. The heroes are Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Kenzo,
Prada, Sonia Rykiel, Saint Laurent, and others. Their adventures are presented in an innovative chronological — and logical — order.
From haute couture to the boom in ready-to-wear, the clothing industry, creators and designers, we witness the evolution in
techniques, the shifting trends in the market, how an art matures and a culture changes. We also discover how the French ventured
out of Paris to meet New York, London, Tokyo and Beijing. This book is a must for fashion lovers, professionals, and students who will
find a thousand references never before presented. It will also enlighten the curious reader who wishes to go behind the scenes of
this most seductive of theaters. About the Author
Didier Grumbach is one of the most discreet, yet powerful and prestigious figures in the world of fashion. In 1966, he co-founded
Saint Laurent Rive Gauche with Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Between 1968 and 1973, he worked alongside Hubert de
Givenchy in Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique. In 1971, Grumbach created the company Créateurs & Industriels, in order to bridge the
gap between designers and the industry: in that context, he featured the first shows of designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Issey
Miyake and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. He discovered Thierry Mugler’s talent very early on, and, in 1978, founded and became the
chairman of the company that bears the designer’s name. He then served as chairman of Yves Saint Laurent, Inc. In 1985, he joined
the staff of the Institut Français de la Mode, where he served as Director of Studies, and then as Dean of the Professorial Staff. In
1998, he was elected chairman of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de
Mode, and of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. His book, Histoires de la Mode, first published in French in 1993, and
updated in 2008 and 2014, has been translated into numerous languages, including Chinese, Portuguese and Romanian.
