Excerpt from Ancient Japanese and Chinese Brocades, Japanese Color Prints: The Collection of Shojiro Nomura of Kioto, Nishiki and Kinran Brocades and Tapestries From 1400 to 1812, Rare Prints in Early Impressions (Some From the Hayashi Collection)

Kesa signifies the ceremonial robe of a Buddhist Priest. It is usually formed of forty-eight pieces, and the strips are arranged in the form of a rice field, symbolical with the growing of the seed of benevolence among mankind. Tradition has it that Buddha wore only cast-off rugs, and this explains the fact that the Kesa is made of small pieces sewed together. In Japan, where Buddhism was understood in its highest sense, an elaborate ritual was developed. Rich brocades and embroideries were eagerly sought after for Kesa and Altar Cloths. Indeed, we owe the preservation of many of the wonderful brocades of early Chinese and Japanese produc tion to the fact that the costly material was reduced in value by cutting up and making into the Kesa and Ohi (or one-strip Kesa of the Jodo and Shinshu sects). Had they been kept complete in Width and length as woven they would have been used in various luxurious purposes and entirely lost to us.

The Ohi is a narrow strip worn in connection with the Kesa. It is passed over the left shoulder across the breast and under the right arm, signifying adoration of Buddha's preaching, uncovering the right shoulder.

The present collection has occupied the attention of Mr. Nomura for the past fifteen years. It is believed to be one of the best collections of. Ancient textile weaving ever brought to this country, illustrating the historical development and varieties of weave and design.

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